TOURS-ANGOULÊME-BORDEAUX-LA ROCHELLE-PARTHENAY-TOURS 2019






Chambray-les-Tours


Start Sunday 18th August 2019

Ehlange-Tours (Loire)+/- 630 kilometers 6 and 1/2 hours drive ;check in Hotel le Garden Chambray-les-Tours.Since the long-term parking in Tours is closed we ask the hotel manager to leave the car with them. Dinner at the hotel







Monday 19th. August

7h, early breakfast, take all the things that we don't want to take along into the car. Leave around 9h ,the first day always hard to get organized (charging the bikes with all the little luggage etc). Arrival at the Ibis Budget hotel in Châtellerault after a ride of 83 km against some hard winds. But lovely landscape with pretty sunflowers…

Sainte Catherine de Fierbois


Thursday 20th August

Get up at leisurely eight o'clock + breakfast. Since the region is very uninhabited, we adapt to the conditions and choose small, respectively, big day trips in order to find a place to spend the night.....66km, nice ride through the country side. Just before Lussac we find a castle ruin of which the ascent is very steep. We have to push the bikes up the cobblestoned road to get to the medieval city. After a little stroll through the small streets we ride on to Lussac-les-châteaux. Hotel Montespan, a quiet little hotel, luckily off the busy main road. Dinner at the hôtel.




Wednesday 21th August

7:15h breakfast, we get an early start, since we don't know how the day is going to develop. We have reserved a "gîte" close to Roumazières in the middle of nowhere, so we want to make sure we have time on our side. The ride turns into a hard one: "rollercoaster" style down and steep ascents all the time, a killer. The weather isn't as warm as announced, lucky us. The wind is on our side, endless up and down; a beer in Roumazières, a long talk to a crazy Brit and a long search for the "gîte le relais d'âge" run by some English people. The whole place looks like a "Mas de Provence", with several buildings attached to it. The friendly landlady will prepare some dinner for us since there is no restaurant nearby. They even provide some tools for Gaston who needs to fix something on his handlebar.


La Rochefoucauld








Thursday 22th August


It is very chilly in the morning. We wear some more clothes but right after the first ascent we need to take off a lot of them or get too sweaty. We ride trough La Rochefoucauld. All, the Convent + the castle very very nice, a real nice little French town. Soon after La Rochefoucauld we find a “voie verte” (old railway track) nice and easy to cycle. Go for Angoulême, where we find a film festival going on and the town is very vivid with it. Cycle out of Angoulême along the Charente to the Campanile Hotel where we stay for dinner. 80 km










Friday 23th August.

Angoulême-Château Neuf sur Charente-Barbezieux St.Hilaire-Montlieu la Garde
Leave Campanile , it is rather chilly again. Again the countryside is very pleasant to ride through. Soon we get to a little dirt track along the river Charente that we enjoy quite a bit. 

Saint Simeux (Charente)












































After that we continue on another voie verte for a while. Leaving it we ride towards Montlieu la Garde. After a nasty and steep ascent we come to our hotel, it is a very modest place, mainly for lorry drivers. The room is rather primitive and simple, but we are glad to find at least a place to sleep in this “in-the-middle-of-nowhere”- area!! The landlord is worried that we might not be happy in his place (we are certainly not like his usual costumers), but the buffet “des routiers” is largely sufficient for our purpose and we are satisfied. Tomorrow we shall treat ourselves to a more luxurious place….



Saturday 24th  of August

After our “les routiers” experience the way leads up and down again, but it is less cold than the previous days. We have a drink in a little town, Libourne, fill up on water and continue to famous St Emilion. We walk around there, feeling a bit out of place in the posh town, certainly with a very chic wedding going on right in the centre. 




We cycle out of town to the vineyards, it is beautiful around this area, rich “châteaux”, picturesque “domaines” , you name it. We try to get (after some serious searching) to our gîte, Gîte de Cabadentra. Roland, our landlord, is very talkative, shows us gardens, vineyards and gets us a tasting of different grapes and wines. We get some nice dinner there, plenty of chatting and finally we sleep like a log after a hard and long day. 72 km

Sunday 25th of August

Surprise in the morning: covered, greyish sky, it looks like rain. We check the weather forecast, it announces a warm day. We leave the gîte and cycle fast and effectively to escape the worst of the heat. We find a voie verte, leading to Bordeaux (35 km) and we speed up. 


Bordeaux



Ending up in Bordeaux, the sun is out, suncream put on, clothes reduced , 
and we reserve a gîte in Margaux. 
After 87 km we get to the Villa Bord’o and the friendly landlady indicates us a “snack” resto-rapide , the only place to get some dinner (mind you, this IS Margaux after all..) But all is closed, cycling in France is a disaster in lonely areas to get shelter and food….Again we are lucky and get some delicious food provided by the friendly landlady. Maybe we have to plan our next cycling trip to France according to places to find hotels and some decent meals….

Rives de Gironde



Monday 26th of August

Leaving Villabord’o very relaxed, stocking up on water on the road etc until Gaston realises quite panicky that we have to hurry up to catch the ferry to Blaye. Riding at hell’s speed we arrive just in time before the ferry leaves. Our legs are stiff from the “quickstart”, we rest on the ferry and pick up the cycling path to Royan when we are ashore…After a while we realise that we have to face a much longer and harder trip than originally planned. We try to find shortcuts whenever it is possible, but the ride is tough and hot and we arrive at 20:00 to Royan, merciless 112 km in our legs. Snacking more than eating a proper dinner, we stay in a B + B hotel. The cycling along the coast "rives de Gironde" has been really beautiful, with the typical fishing nets, les “carrelets” offering lovely opportunities for pictures. We sort our things out and have our well deserved rest.

Tuesday 27th of August

We leave Royan without a final destination of the day. Around late morning we decide to make it to La Rochelle, this will make it easier with the coming “étapes”.



Along the coast we are hit by a very strong wind. We take 2 small ferries, spontaneously and with no queuing up or waiting time. We pass Marennes that has a beautiful church spire. 




While  we are using the small ferry, a very special kind of bridge comes into sight: a "pont-transbordeur". This transporter bridge is an engineering structure that connects the two banks of the Charente between Rochefort and Échillais without interfering with shipping to the Naval Arsenal and the port of Rochefort. It is the last of its kind in France. We end up in the centre of La Rochelle, Ibis Hotel, 104 km. We get some food and a lovely stroll through town, still busy with many tourists.



La Rochelle


Wednesday 28th of August

Getting out of La Rochelle, we cycle along the river Sèvre and are heading towards the most attractive part of our whole cycling holidays.: le canal de Marons.


Poitevin
Niort






“Le canal de Marons, au Coeur du Marais baigné par la Sèvre. Une étappe à fleur
 d’eau a épousé les méandres de la Sèvre Niortoise, alternant chemins de hallage et petites routes » that’s what you read in tourist  leaflets. Indeed, the area is gorgeous ! Beautiful little bridges, serpentine routes, getting through little French villages, along the ponds and lakes and the river….all too pleasant. Le Marais=”poitevin”
Famous animal of the region=le ragondin, le nutria (family of beavers and rats)
95 km to Niort, Hotel Ibis style.
Nice Pizzeria, get a date with Martina and Howard for the other day.

Thursday 29th of August

From Niort off towards Le Moulin Jourdain in Largeasse. Although it is a hard ride, up and down the hills, we enjoy the landscape a lot. After an extended search we do find the mill, and get a most wonderful welcome by Martina and Howard. We get a large room with bathroom en suite and chat chat chat….so many things to catch up with and (for my part) a few tears to shed out of sheer happiness to see them. Lovely home cooked dinner!!! 75 km









Friday 30th of August

Spend the day leisurely at the Mill and get our first “resting day” ever on a cycling trip!!!! And the best company I can wish for, total bliss! Thanks Martina and Howard!































 



Saturday 31st  of August

Good bye Mill and Martina and Howard with warm thanks!
We pick up cycling again, hilly, up and down, some “faux plats”, but all very nice. 
Château Lamaité, very green around, a little snack at the baker’s and going on. Unfortunately a rather strong wind rises and turns pedalling into a hard job… Through Parthenay and on to Thouars, we find an hotel outside of town, the Brithotel. Cycle back to town for dinner….85 km

Saint-Loup-sur-Thouet






















































Sunday 1st of September

Get up with some difficulties, the fatigue is having its call…There has been some rain during the night and the summerish temperatures drop drastically. Packing the rain gear to the top of the bags we start riding the bikes. We decide to stop at castles, rivers, old ruins, bridges and take many photos, cycling leisurely at a slow pace. The wind is terrible again, so our decision to make it to Saumur is a good one. 50 km, a mini "étape" indeed.
































On our way a beautiful castle: Montreuil-Bellay,  worth the break. In Saumur we stay at Ibis style Hotel, find a pizzeria and stroll through the town after the meal.

Montreuil-Bellay











































Monday 2nd of September

Early breakfast and start. It is chilly and cool. We follow the river for a while and then climb a hill towards the “rocks”, XI century dwellings built into the vaults of the rocks. We are stunned!





We continue to Chinon, a fortress, take a lift uptown to the medieval city and cycle on to Azay le Rideau. Here our hardship begins: there are no proper cycling tracks, so it turns into a mountain bike trip. Forest, gravel, sandy track, we cycle and struggle with the uncomfortable tracks, on top of that against a hard wind. At Azay le Rideau bikes should be left behind and we dislike the idea of leaving all our stuff unguarded on a parking lot. We have a short break at the baker’s and cycle on to Tours. Kyriad Hotel 92 km, dinner at the shopping mall.

Chinon





















































Tuesday 3rd of September

We plan to cycle in a sort of triangle today, squeezing as many things worth to visit as we can into the trip. We are heading away from Tours, on the main road for a while, but manage to get safely to Chenonceaux. Here we treat ourselves to an extended visit of castle and gardens (moat). 


Chenonceaux




From Chenonceaux to Amboise, this time we are happy with a visit from the outside. On the way out of Amboise we decide to search for a board we had altered years ago with our friends (“(G)Loire à vélo 1000 km”), we cycle back and forth on the cycling path, on both sides of the river, but no sign of the board. We give up on the idea and head towards Tours. Tours by rush hour, a nightmare! We finally arrive back at the Hotel Garden, after 108 km, happy to see our car back on the hotel’s parking lot. Final dinner at the hotel and the day after driving back to Luxembourg.


Amboise



Paris- Chartres-Mont-Saint-Michel-Saint-Malo-Rennes-Nantes-Orléans-Paris





This cycling trip took us through the following regions of France. Île-de-France, Normandie, Bretagne, Pays-de-la-Loire, Centre Val-de-Loire, Île de France. The best part of the trip was that we could actually use mainly official cycling tracks as well as some minor roads with very little traffic.




Thursday, 02.08.2018

Early in the morning we drove from Luxembourg to Paris. There we had some trouble to find a long term parking, we were told to leave our car in Massy-Plaiseau, parking of the TGV. So we prepared the bicycles and quickly joined the cycle route V40 going from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel. Our first destination was Rambouillet, since it was already 14:00h when we started. Leaving Paris by the “véloroute, vélocénie “V40 was much easier than I thought. On our way we decided to make a short detour to visit Versailles. This took us much longer than we had calculated. About 20 km before Rambouillet Gaston got horrible cramps. The weather was awfully hot and, he probably did not drink enough. So the last km turned out to be real nightmare (calvaire). We planed to arrive in Rambouillet at 18.00 and finally reached our Hotel at 21:30. Unfortunately the cramps went on till late in the night.















  
 







Friday, 03.08.2018

Due to last night’s cramps, Gaston had extreme muscle soreness. So we decided to make a very short leg and have a longer rest in Chartres. This turned out o be a good decision so that we had plenty of time to visit Chartres with its famous Gothic cathedral. 

In Chartres we took the decision to start the coming days as early in the morning as possible to avoid the high temperatures.












Saturday 04.08.2018

We left Chartres by 06:30. The old medieval city by early morning light is a pleasure for the eye. Notre Dame Cathedral over towers the city and the little cobblestoned streets create a mystic atmosphere.




On our way we had the occasion to admire the beautiful castle of Frazé. 


FRAZÉ


































































The following part of our journey turned out to be very green, with many little brooks and lakes, on the whole a beautiful and refreshing scenery. The last 15 km, where the cycle path followed small hilly roads, without a lot of shade and a temperature exceeding 32 °, were rather strenuous….After 76 km we arrived at Nogent-le-Retrou, where we stayed in the Hotel Lion d’Or.

NOGENT-LE-RETROU










Sunday, 05.08.2018

After leaving Nogent-le-Retrou, again early in the morning, we went on cycling on a wonderful “voie verte” (in France, the “voies vertes” are cycling routes that follow an ancient railway track), Here we did not suffer from the heat at all, since we were riding in a kind of green tunnel. 




On the way we took some pictures of the “manoire de la Vove”. After 86 km we arrived in Alençon. In the late afternoon we spend some time at "Alençon plage" a kind of artificial beach with numerous attractions.


ALENçON












   


DOMFORT


























Monday, 06.08.2018

After an early breakfast we headed towards Domfort. Here we met a rather hilly cycle route. The major attraction was the visit of the  castle “Château de Carrouge”. A Domfort we stayed in the logis de France, This charming medieval city is situated on a hill and holds one of the oldest churches build of reinforced concrete.






CHÂTEAU DE CARROUGES








  

Tuesday, 07.08.2018


Departure at 06:20 without breakfast. We ride along on another “voie verte” and arrive in Avranches, 24 km away from Mt. St. Michel. We leave our luggage in the hotel ride towards Mt. St. Michel. The crowd here was overwhelming. After leaving the bicycles at the beginning of the dam, we took a shuttle that brought us to the entrance of Mt. St. MichelThe weather suddenly turned thunderstorm-like as we started a quick visit of this famous World Heritage site.




On our way back to the hotel the sky became all black, and we were trapped by a huge storm. At one point the wind was so strong and stirred up so much dust that we rather could not see anything. Broken branches were lying all around, and we were happy to arrive safe and sound in our hotel in Avranches.

Wednesday, 08.08.2018

From Avranches we cycled along the Atlantic coast line towards Saint Malo. St. Malo was crowded, as always in the summer. We could not visit the old city centre because we did not want leave our bicycles with the luggage unattended. In Juan Les Guérets, outside of St. Malo, we found an B&B hotel, and drove back to St.Malo by bus. …….


SAINT MALO










Thursday, 09.08.2018


The heat is gone, followed by heavy rain. From our hotel we drove towards Dinan on “véloroute V42” following the river Rance. The scenery was very beautiful but the cycling was extremely painful. In fact, we drove on non concrete path mainly covered with a sandy coating. Due to the rain out bicycles sank into the sand so that we progressed only very slowly, despite our strong efforts. In Évran we decide to leave the cycle path and went on to Rennes on the normal concrete road. We checked in at the B&B hotel In Saint-Grégoire, north of Rennes, where we fortunately had the opportunity to clean our bikes.










Friday, 10.08.2018


In Rennes, we joined the river “la Vilaine” and follow the “V42” through a very beautiful landscape with many small lakes. The weather was rather cold, and we suffered from a rather strong wind blowing in our face as well as from a bumby cycle route. After 102 km we arrive in our hotel, Bel Hotel, in Redon close to a “zone d’activitée”. In the evening we took our time to stroll through Redon and see the nice timbered houses. We ended up in a nice “crèperie” with lovely food.



Saturday, 11.08.2018


In Redon, we leave the “V42” and continue on the Euro-Vélo “EV1”. The “EV1” follows the "canal de Nantes à Brest". 30 km before Nantes we stop following the channel and decide to go around Nantes in an easterly direction. In Nantes, we had to struggle our way through a huge crowd heading for an important (I presume) football match. We checked in at an Ibis hotel, The only hotel with no room for our bicycles, so that we had to leave them in front of the hotel.😣






Sunday, 12.08.2018

ANCENIS





In Nantes, we joined the EV6 going along the river Loire. The EV6 is the cycle route we took years ago to travel to the black sea. With lovely weather and a beautiful scenery cycling was at its best. We drove past the castles of Oudon and Ancenis. Aux Ponts-de-Cé close to Angers we found a nice Kyriad hotel.


















Monday, 13.08.2018

We continue our way along the Loire. At a certain point the cycle way went straight into a channel beside the Loire. As I desperately searched for the right route. Jacqueline pointed out to a small boat which turned out to be a self-trailing ferry. 









After our ferry-experience, we drove towards Saumur. The following kilometres the Ev6 leads along the beautiful “Châteaux de la Loire”,Rigny-Ussé, Langeais, Villandry. After a ride of 125 km we arrived tired but happy in Tours, where we checked in at another nice Kyriade hotel. Dinner at the Thai Pytaya, a Thai restaurant.



















































Tuesday, 14.08.2018


In the early morning we cross Tours and have a glimpse of the Gothic cathedral. We continue our way along the Loire and drive past the castle of Amboise, Blois and arrive after 109 km in Beaugency (hôtel La Licorne) about 30 km before Orléans.



Wednesday, 15.08.2018





After Beaugency we cross Angers along the riverside. For some kilometres we follow “le canal de la Loire”, afterwards we leave the river Loire and cycle on secondary roads (EV3) to Montargis.





Tuesday, 16.08.2018

In Montargis we join the River Loing and follow the channel of the “Loing” via Fontenay-sur-Loing, Nemours up to Veneux-les-Sablons, where we meet the River Seine. Here we cycle past some beautiful Manors. After Melun the cycle path EV3 starts to get terribly bad, so that we were glad to arrive in Corbeil-Essone after a ride of 115 km.

Friday, 17.08.2018

We leave Corbeil-Essone early in the morning. To join the parking place in Massy we had to browse the suburbs south of Paris. This was not an easy matter, but with the help of the “cycle navigator” of google maps we managed to be successful.






Tour : Sarre- Strasbourg- Palatinat (Pfalz)




04.06.2018
Saarburg via Luxembourg, Manternach, Wasserbillig, Trier, Konz
Hotel Wirtshaus am Pferdemarkt.




















05.06.2018
Saarburg-Sarreguemines en longeant la Sarre (Hôtel Saint Luc)


















06.06.2018
Sarreguemines-Saverne en suivant le canal de la Sarre jusqu’à la jonction avec le canal Nancy –Strasbourg. 






Près d'Arzviller nous avons rejoint la Vallée des Eclusiers. L’échelle d’écluses d’Arzviller/Henridorff est un des sites remarquables du réseau des Voies navigables de France. Construite en 1853 afin de permettre au canal de la Marne au Rhin de franchir le seuil des Vosges, elle était constituée de 17 écluses réparties sur 3,8 km. Fermée à la navigation depuis 1969, date de la mise en service du Plan Incliné de Saint-Louis Arzviller






07.06.2018
Saverne-Hagenau avec une courte visite de Strasbourg. A cause de la pluie et de la boue, un tronçon qui longe le canal s’est avéré en véritable parcours du combattant




08.06.2018
Hagenau-Pirmasens. La traversée de la « Pfalz » fut  très épuisante. Les orages qui ont éclatés durant l’après-midi nous ont forcés de raccourcir notre trajet. (Hôtel Best Western à Pirmasens)






09.06.2018
Pirmasens-St.Wendel. Après Dahn il a recommencé à pleuvoir. Nous sommes arrivés très tard à St. Wendel à cause de la pluie et à cause d’une piste cyclable mouillée où nos vélos ont souffert beaucoup. A l'hôtel  "Le Journal" nous étions heureux de retrouver une belle et grande chambre pour sécher nos affaires. Après le souper nous avions l’occasion d’assister à un festival amusant dans les rues de St. Wendel. Un musicien avec sa guitare 12 cordes nous à particulièrement épaté (Volker Hassler www.12saiter.de)





10.06.2018
St.Wendel-Saarburg en passant par Saarwellingen pour rendre visite à nos amis Petra et Werner Becker.














































11.06.2016
Saarburg-Ehlange Pour ne pas emprunter le même chemin de retour, nous avons choisi de remonter le long de la Leuk. Après avoir passé la frontière la piste cyclable était tellement trempée que nos vélos se sont enfoncés dans la boue à tel point que les roues des vélos ne tournaient plus du tout. Nous étions forcés de nettoyer les vélos dans un lavoir à Aspelt. Quelques kilomètres plus loin un orage très violent a éclaté. Il a plu tellement que les routes étaient complètement inondées. 
A hauteur de Huncherange l’eau arrivait jusqu’à hauteur des hanches des habitants. Étant donné que notre domicile n’était plus qu’à une dizaine de km, nous avons décidé de serrer les dents et de rentrer malgré le fait que nous étions trempés jusqu’aux os.